Ochota Barrels Where’s the Pope Syrah 2024

One dark day in October 2020 news broke through to the wine community that Taras Ochota had died. Taras had sent me his wines a couple of times but I’d never met him, and his story had never been mine to tell. That is, other than via the glass, I had no personal connection to him, either real or pretend. And yet I always remember the moment that I heard that news; it was like hearing that one of the world’s navigating lights had been turned off. It felt wrong in both concept and in fact. This news was sad, obviously, but it was also unsettling. I’d never stared long and hard at Taras Ochota, but I had glanced at him, frequently, as had so many. These glances, textured like sun, had burned something onto us, and into us. Life would be lesser without him, but greater for him.

I don’t know Amber Ochota either, but I can’t imagine – given the above – that it was an easy decision to continue to make the Ochota Barrels wines. Anxiety is a beast, and for all manner of reasons, the position Amber finds herself in has anxiety written all over it, even though of course, it shouldn’t. Life’s not fair like that.

In any case, this Ochota Barrels Where’s The Pope Syrah 2024, which I bought at full retail price, is a cause for any and all involved to rest that bit easier. It is, truly, a gorgeous wine to drink. It’s a light-ish wine but it’s meaty, it’s peppery, it’s cherried and it’s tense. I drank it on a Wednesday night, and it made the life ahead seem that bit brighter, not to mention, greater.

Campbell Mattinson

This post was written by Campbell Mattinson. Mattinson is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of The Winefront business. He is the author of five books on wine – four of which were bestsellers (The Wine Hunter, the Big Red Wine Book 2008, the Big Red Wine Book 2009, and the Big Red Wine Book 2010).

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the national Best Australian Sports Writing Award. In 2026 three of his photographs were short-listed for the World Food Photography Awards.

Campbell Mattinson, who is 100% independent, has tasted between 5000 and 10,000 wines each and every year for the past 25 years. He tastes blind, in comparative brackets, as often as is practicable.

Campbell Mattinson is a journalist, a photographer, a filmmaker and a wine critic. In all of these mediums his prime motive is to tell people's stories.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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