Piper-Heidsieck Hors-Serie Champagne 1982

A bottle of the quite extraordinary Piper Heidsieck Hors-Serie Champagne 1982.

Piper-Heidsieck Hors-Serie Champagne 1982

Piper-Heidsieck’s Hors-Serie Champagne 1982 was left on lees for a remarkable 39 years. It’s from a Champagne vintage of high renown; it’s a vintage often listed as among the Champagne region’s best. It’s a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, though interestingly it only received a 4 grams per litre dosage, which is low. The asking price in Australia is $1000. This is only the second release of a Hors-Serie Champagne – we reviewed the 1971 Hors-Serie Champagne on The Winefront when it was released. This 1982 release has been in Australia for most of the past year. Only a very small number of bottles were imported but if you want a bottle, there are still bottles available.

The thing is that this wine, from a great vintage, was left on lees for most of its life, and was kept in the Piper-Heidsieck cellar (of course) throughout that time. What this effectively means is that it’s been given every possible chance to be kept fresh, as the decades have unfolded.

I was fortunate enough to score a bottle. It felt wrong to simply drink and taste it myself, so I’ve been looking for a way to share it. Last Friday I opened this bottle and drank it with dumplings as the accompaniment, and with two of my favourite wine industry colleagues as company. It’s a wine. What is it, forty-two years old? It’s both fresh and honeyed at once, it still has plenty of zip, it’s refreshing, and yet of course it’s rolled with complex flavour. It doesn’t offer a mind-bending experience but with every sip you’re impressed. There are of course a lot of famous wines out of France from the 1982 vintage but this Hors-Serie has taken time in its stride so effortlessly that you’d be hard-pressed to find another 1982 vintage wine in such spritely good condition.

95 points – Campbell Mattinson.

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Frequently asked questions

How long was Piper-Heidsieck Hors-Série 1982 aged on lees?
Thirty-nine years. It was kept in Piper-Heidsieck's own cellars throughout, before disgorging and release – an exceptionally long time on lees, which is central to how fresh the wine remains.

Is the 1982 Hors-Série still good to drink now?
Yes. Reviewed at around 42 years of age, it was fresh, honeyed and still full of zip – you'd be hard-pressed to find another 1982-vintage wine in such spritely condition. Campbell Mattinson scored it 95 points.

How much does it cost in Australia?
The asking price is around AU$1000. Only a very small number of bottles were imported, though some remained available at the time of writing.

What is in the blend?
It's a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a low dosage of 4 grams per litre.

Was 1982 a good Champagne vintage?
1982 is widely regarded as one of the great Champagne vintages, frequently listed among the region's best.

Is this the only Hors-Série release?
No – it's the second. The first was based on the 1971 vintage, reviewed on The Winefront on release.

Campbell Mattinson

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He founded The Winefront, is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion (and former editor of Halliday magazine), and is the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He is 100% independent, and tastes between 5,000 and 10,000 wines each year, blind and in comparative brackets as often as is practicable.

More about Campbell Mattinson

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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