Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2023: Review + Story

Mattinson review of Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2023.
  • The 2022 calendar year was the wettest year on record in the Hunter Valley.

  • It’s incredible that the wettest year on record resulted in a great following summer for red wine in the Hunter Valley: 2023 is now considered one of the all-time great Hunter red vintages.

  • 2023 was a cool, long, low-yielding vintage. It was one of the latest Hunter Valley red wine vintages on record.

  • This 2023 vintage of Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz was matured in 100% French oak, but only 15% of that oak was new.

  • The Graveyard Vineyard, and the fruit it grows, does all the talking.

  • This release is 13.5% alcohol, and is $500 per bottle.

Given that Brokenwood is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery and that I have a long history with Brokenwood’s Graveyard Shiraz and that the 2023 ripening season in the Hunter Valley is somewhat heralded – not to mention Gary Walsh’s scoop review of this wine on The Winefront – I was pretty keen to take a look at the Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2023. One wintry Friday in June then I opened a bottle, pre-lunch, and let it air for an hour or two.

What struck me, from the first sip, is how far Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz has come stylistically. Graveyard Shiraz is now more under- than over-stated. This particular release is both a silken wine and a grainy one, which is a good combination in my books, and while there’s ample palate flavour and weight the emphasis really is on the finish. Indeed we’re essentially in peacock’s tail territory here. Iron, blood, plum, earth, blueberry, pepper and assorted nutty-twiggy spice characters all get a chance to strut their stuff. But it’s the way this wine extends its hand out to you on the finish, and pulls you further into its world, that makes you think that there’s a sleight, or a magic, or a certain special something in our midst. 96 points.

RRP$500.

Campbell Mattinson

This article was written by Campbell Mattinson, former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of the highly respected The Winefront site.

Mattinson has been an independent wine critic and photo-journalist since 1987. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the prized Best Australian Sports Writing Award.

Mattinson, who is 100% independent, puts a score out of 100 on every wine that he reviews. But what he’d rather do, is tell you the wine’s story.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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