By Farr

By Farr is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery — Campbell Mattinson's highest honour.
Geelong.

The By Farr winery in the Moorabool Valley, near Geelong in southern Victoria, was established in 1994. In any list of Australia’s best wineries it is customarily and correctly at or near the top.

The case.

Every year the By Farr winery grows and crafts a superb set of wines. It does this using the viognier, chardonnay, pinot noir, gamay and shiraz grape varieties, planted in volcanic loams and quartz gravels, drilled down to the specifics of site and soil and hands. There is, simply, no such thing as a run-of-the-mill By Farr wine, the highest compliment any winery can receive. Of the 2023 By Farr Chardonnay I wrote, in part, “There’s a march to this; an irrepressible push towards and through the finish.” Of the By Farr GC Cote Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 I wrote: “I’m not sure what to say other than that this is superb. It has flint, meal and woodsmoke notes, mineral too, but really, I mean, does it matter? It’s the progression of the palate and the pure, precise power of the finish.” Of the By Farr Tout Pres Pinot Noir 2022 I wrote: “This wine held me transfixed.” Of the By Farr Shiraz 2021 I wrote: “it’s always a marvel to see a backline, in football of all codes, hold its formation as the chaos of attack is unleashed, and that’s what this wine is like. It holds its shape as the dream is laid out.”

By Farr is renowned for its chardonnay and for its Pinot Noir but it makes one of the best gamays (under the Farr Rising name) in Australia, and one of the best shiraz, and one of the best viogniers. By Farr does not do things by halves. It has been organic since 2019, and a beacon of close-planted viticulture since it began.

By Farr has been an irrepressible force of Australian wine since the day Gary and Robyn Farr founded it in 1994. It remains an irresistible force under Nick Farr.

The wines that carry the case.

By Farr Chardonnay 2024 (Geelong): In my version of heaven this wine would be the house white.
By Farr Farrside Pinot Noir 2023 (Geelong): A superb release; svelte, complex, polished and effortless.
By Farr GC Cote Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 (Geelong): It's the progression of the palate and the pure, precise power of the finish. It's the way it captivates. It stops the clock; you take a sip and for a second nothing else matters.
By Farr Shiraz 2021 (Geelong): A glorious cool-climate shiraz. It’s sweet, it’s savoury, it’s truffly, it’s massed with roasted nut characters and it’s many other things besides.

By Farr is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery – the highest honour awarded by Australian wine critic Campbell Mattinson. 10-Star status recognises one thing: the quality of the wine in the glass, every glass, across the range. The full list of 10-Star Wineries constitutes Australia's Best Wineries.

Campbell Mattinson

This post was written by Campbell Mattinson. Mattinson is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of The Winefront business. He is the author of five books on wine – four of which were bestsellers (The Wine Hunter, the Big Red Wine Book 2008, the Big Red Wine Book 2009, and the Big Red Wine Book 2010).

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the national Best Australian Sports Writing Award. In 2026 three of his photographs were short-listed for the World Food Photography Awards.

Campbell Mattinson, who is 100% independent, has tasted between 5000 and 10,000 wines each and every year for the past 25 years. He tastes blind, in comparative brackets, as often as is practicable.

Campbell Mattinson is a journalist, a photographer, a filmmaker and a wine critic. In all of these mediums his prime motive is to tell people's stories.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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