Penfolds Grange and La Chapelle, two of the world's most famous shiraz-based wines, have made a controversial super-blend named Grange La Chapelle. The Hill of Hermitage and various South Australian vineyards combine here to create a wine like no other.

The wines themselves are in great shape, more consistently excellent than ever, but the story of Penfolds has become about head office, about luxury for luxury’s sake, and about wine scores. The score is a story, for sure, but it’s everyone’s story and because it is, it eventually wears thin.

Mattinson’s thoughts on Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1983.