Pago De Tharsys X Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2019

Pago De Tharsys X Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2019
12% alcohol, cork, Cava Pago/Spain.

I tasted this wine double-blind and was impressed enough to follow it up. It’s made with the Xarel·lo variety, was grown at 800 metres above sea level and, once made, rested in an underground cellar for 34 months, prior to disgorgement. It’s a dry, fine style with green and red apple flavours, a general yeastiness and a fair spread of mineral-like character. The palate is very tight, very dry, almost rocky/stony in feel, so much so that my notes mention the word “quartz”. These descriptors might make the wine sound austere but it’s not: it’s also blessed with sweet hay and sunny yellow apple characters. It feels powerful, controlled and juicy. It’s a very good sparkling wine. 93 points.