Henschke Percival’s Mill Gruner Veltliner 2025
$36, 13% alcohol, screwcap, Adelaide Hills.
This wine delivers a good amount of fruit flavour, and character, but it also has a presence, a rarer trait. It tastes of grapefruit pulp and white pepper, lemon balm and blood orange, with tonic-like or general herb notes whispered throughout. It’s excellent. It works for its flavour and mouthfeel but it has more to it besides. 94 points.
Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He founded The Winefront, is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion (and former editor of Halliday magazine), and is the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He is 100% independent, and tastes between 5,000 and 10,000 wines each year, blind and in comparative brackets as often as is practicable.
Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.
