Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2023

Written By Campbell Mattinson
Bottle of Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2024.

Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2023
$500, 13.5% alcohol, screwcap, Hunter Valley.

Given that Brokenwood is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery and that I have a long history with Brokenwood’s Graveyard Shiraz and that the 2023 ripening season in the Hunter Valley is somewhat heralded – not to mention Gary Walsh’s scoop review of this wine on The Winefront – I was pretty keen to take a look at the Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2023. One wintry Friday in June then I opened a bottle, pre-lunch, and let it air for an hour or two.

What struck me, from the first sip, is how far Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz has come stylistically. Graveyard Shiraz is now more under- than over-stated. This particular release is both a silken wine and a grainy one, which is a good combination in my books, and while there’s ample palate flavour and weight the emphasis really is on the finish. Indeed we’re essentially in peacock’s tail territory here. Iron, blood, plum, earth, blueberry, pepper and assorted nutty-twiggy spice characters all get a chance to strut their stuff. But it’s the way this wine extends its hand out to you on the finish, and pulls you further into its world, that makes you think that there’s a sleight, or a magic, or a certain special something in our midst. 96 points.

RRP$500.

Campbell Mattinson

This post was written by Campbell Mattinson. Mattinson is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of The Winefront business. He is the author of five books on wine – four of which were bestsellers (The Wine Hunter, the Big Red Wine Book 2008, the Big Red Wine Book 2009, and the Big Red Wine Book 2010).

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the national Best Australian Sports Writing Award. In 2026 three of his photographs were short-listed for the World Food Photography Awards.

Campbell Mattinson, who is 100% independent, has tasted between 5000 and 10,000 wines each and every year for the past 25 years. He tastes blind, in comparative brackets, as often as is practicable.

Campbell Mattinson is a journalist, a photographer, a filmmaker and a wine critic. In all of these mediums his prime motive is to tell people's stories.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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