Oraterra Martinborough Chardonnay 2024

Oraterra Martinborough Chardonnay 2024
$100, 13.5% alcohol, DIAM cork, Martinborough.

This is both a beautiful and distinctive expression of chardonnay. I’m tempted to say that it’s characterised by two things – by its tension, and its ripe fruit flavour profile – but really, it has a lot of unusualness going on, and a lot of exceptional qualities. There are tropical notes here, mango and lemon, peach nectar, brine, honey, assorted stony/mineral notes, and both roasted nut characters and a stonefruit-pip note. What I particularly love about this wine though is the fact that it’s textural and slippery but also, simultaneously, crackling with energy and indeed with life. Sparks fly but it still manages to glide along. It’s quite a thing and quite a wine. 95 points.