Craiglee

Craiglee is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery — Campbell Mattinson's highest honour.
Sunbury.

9.5 hectares, near the Melbourne Airport, in the Sunbury region of Victoria. The Craiglee winery and estate is both the most unlikely of places for fine wine to grow – and, simultaneously, the most likely. This place, simply, grows great, spice-driven shiraz, and under-appreciated chardonnay.

The case.

“If you were to follow the breadcrumbs of the Australian wine story, through history and to now, at some point the trail would lead you straight to a bluestone building in Sunbury, where you’ll find Pat Carmody, working in the cold there, wood and stone, grape and skin. This, the Craiglee winery, is where the soil meets the soul. The wines here are excellent, the wines here are storied. You drink them and think: this here is the truth.” I wrote these words a couple of years ago and in many respects, this is all there is to be said of the great Craiglee winery. In fact 20-odd years ago I wrote these words: “Everything Pat Carmody does is an attempt to tease out the kind of qualities that the land produced a century ago. As Pat puts it, ‘I’ve always worked with the monkey on my back. Can I produce a wine that will live for 100 years?’” These words expand the picture both a little and a lot. Craiglee was established as a wine estate in 1976 following a horror night on what was then a sheep farm. It’s most famous for its cool-climate shiraz, which drinks well both young and with age. The same, just quietly, can be said of Craiglee’s elegant Chardonnay.

The wines that carry the case.

See more [In the lee of the Craig: The story of the Craiglee winery]

Craiglee is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery – the highest honour awarded by Australian wine critic Campbell Mattinson. 10-Star status recognises one thing: the quality of the wine in the glass, every glass, across the range. The full list of 10-Star Wineries constitutes Australia's Best Wineries.

Campbell Mattinson

This post was written by Campbell Mattinson. Mattinson is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of The Winefront business. He is the author of five books on wine – four of which were bestsellers (The Wine Hunter, the Big Red Wine Book 2008, the Big Red Wine Book 2009, and the Big Red Wine Book 2010).

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the national Best Australian Sports Writing Award. In 2026 three of his photographs were short-listed for the World Food Photography Awards.

Campbell Mattinson, who is 100% independent, has tasted between 5000 and 10,000 wines each and every year for the past 25 years. He tastes blind, in comparative brackets, as often as is practicable.

Campbell Mattinson is a journalist, a photographer, a filmmaker and a wine critic. In all of these mediums his prime motive is to tell people's stories.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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