Cullen

Cullen is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery — Campbell Mattinson's highest honour.
Margaret River.

Vanya Cullen is a unique talent on a special site; the result is greatness. But there is yet more to the story of Cullen.

The case.

It’s important to note that Cullen, established in 1971 but with vine-planting history in Margaret River dating back to 1966, won the award for Best Wine of Show at the 1977 Canberra Wine Show, and also a trophy at the 1982 Royal Perth Wine Show. The former award was the first time that a Margaret River wine – any Margaret River wine – had won a major trophy in Australia, and the latter award made Diana (Di) Cullen the first woman to win a trophy at Perth Royal. Di Cullen made the early Cullen wines and put the Cullen wine estate on the map, and while her husband Kevin Cullen is clearly of significant importance here too, it’s worth arguing that Diana Cullen deserves even greater recognition in the history of Australian wine than she is currently afforded. Di Cullen is, plainly, a legendary figure – as a wine maker, a wine proprietor, and a wine grower. No one cared about her land and the land of her region more than Di Cullen. Posthumously, she should be awarded the Maurice O’Shea award (Australia’s highest wine industry honour).

There’s a great deal more that could be said about the formative years of Cullen, its wins, its reliance on organics, its rise and rise. Cullen is the embodiment of great Margaret River Chardonnay, great Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon and great Margaret River Cabernet Merlot, among other things and other varieties.

It’s important to recognise the above, because it is sometimes lost in the whirl of excellence carried forward, and expanded on, by Di and Kevin’s daughter, Vanya Cullen. Vanya Cullen is a giant of Australian wine. She took over the winemaking at Cullen in 1989, and as Managing Director in 1999, and has done nothing but elevate the estate further, or higher, since. Vanya Cullen should already have been named as a Maurice O’Shea Award winner. She is a giant herself, in her own right and by her own doing; she did though too, stand on the shoulders of her giant-figure of a mother, Di.

Cullen, now, isn’t just known for its elite Chardonnay and elite Cabernet Sauvignon; it’s known for the fact that it produces it every single year. The Cullen estate – essentially 28 hectares in size, though with other holdings, in the heart of the prized Wilyabrup sub-region – is farmed biodynamically, rigorously, carefully and thoughtfully. The wines of the Cullen estate have been outstanding for over forty years now but, under Vanya Cullen, quality has headed for the skies.

These modern Cullen wines – these structural, fresh, essential wines – handle the truth, speak the truth, are the truth.

The wines that prove the case.

See more [Cullen Chardonnay Reviews] on The Winefront site.
See more [Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot Reviews] on The Winefront site.
See more of the Cullen cabernet journey here and more particularly: here (Vanya releases).

Cullen is a Mattinson 10-Star Winery – the highest honour awarded by Australian wine critic Campbell Mattinson. 10-Star status recognises one thing: the quality of the wine in the glass, every glass, across the range. The full list of 10-Star Wineries constitutes Australia's Best Wineries.

Campbell Mattinson

This post was written by Campbell Mattinson. Mattinson is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of The Winefront business. He is the author of five books on wine – four of which were bestsellers (The Wine Hunter, the Big Red Wine Book 2008, the Big Red Wine Book 2009, and the Big Red Wine Book 2010).

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the national Best Australian Sports Writing Award. In 2026 three of his photographs were short-listed for the World Food Photography Awards.

Campbell Mattinson, who is 100% independent, has tasted between 5000 and 10,000 wines each and every year for the past 25 years. He tastes blind, in comparative brackets, as often as is practicable.

Campbell Mattinson is a journalist, a photographer, a filmmaker and a wine critic. In all of these mediums his prime motive is to tell people's stories.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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