Punch Lance’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

Punch Lance’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023
$45, 12.5% alcohol, screwcap, Yarra Valley

This beautiful Pinot Noir from Punch in the Yarra Valley was grown on vines that were planted in 1976, 1998 and 2003. The fact that there were three plantings might make it sound as though there are a lot of vines in play here, but the truth is that this vineyard is still only two hectares in total. We’re talking boutique wine farming here. This 2023 release is a wine typical of the estate, in that it has a run of sap, forest berry and violet characters sitting in the centre of the palate, right there amid the mainstay of fresh, blue-red berry, gently jellied fruit. This wine is suggestive of undergrowth, and of twiggy herbs, in an inherent and/or unforced way. It carries fine-grained tannin, and a well-sustained finish. It’s absolutely delightful to drink now, but it will cellar. 94 points.