Ysios Seleccion Tempranillo 2018.
At six years of age this Spanish tempranillo from the Rioja wine region is so meaty, dry and substantial that it really does need a stint in the decanter. This baby needs some air. It tastes essentially of raspberry, resin and marshmallow, earth and leather, roasted nuts and just plain toast, though there’s also a salted/earthen/herbal character whispering about the edges, which here we will call complexity. It’s not a boring wine. It’s also not soft and easy-going; there’s a lot of mouth-puckering tannin, which gives the finish a real bite. It feels serious, and it means business, the latter impression aided by the warmth of the wine’s 15% alcohol. Personally I’m not a great fan of the reds of Rioja but I’d argue that this particular release has a fair bit going for it, so long as you enjoy red wine that’s gutsy and dry.
AU $55, 15% alcohol, cork sealed.