Deviation Road Beltana Blanc de Blancs 2019

Written By Campbell Mattinson
Bottle of Deviation Road Beltana Blanc de Blancs 2019.

Deviation Road Beltana Blanc de Blancs 2019
AU$110, 12.5% alcohol, DIAM cork, Adelaide Hills.

Disgorged in June 2026. 4 grams/litre dosage. 100% chardonnay. Seven years on lees. Made by Kate Laurie.

Yes this is a (sparkling) wine of length, flavour and complexity but it’s also quite exquisitely elegant. It throws oyster shells into white peach, baked bread into preserved citrus, and flings chalk over baked red apples and grapefruit. It’s seven years old now, it’s fresher than most daisies, and it will continue to improve beautifully. There are some who argue that Kate Laurie, her Piccadilly Valley site and her Beltana Blanc de Blancs are the best combination in Australian wine. She has noteworthy competition of course but I drank this wine and found myself nodding in the direction of such arguments. There’s a near-squeaky textural element to the wine which, in the context of myriad flavour nuances and eventual length, is the absolute bomb. In short, this is a fantastic release.

96 points – Campbell Mattinson.

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Campbell Mattinson

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He founded The Winefront, is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion (and former editor of Halliday magazine), and is the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He is 100% independent, and tastes between 5,000 and 10,000 wines each year, blind and in comparative brackets as often as is practicable.

More about Campbell Mattinson

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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