Grape & Grain: Australia Wineries That Make Whisky

Every whisky country leans on someone else's empties. Scotland built its style on sherry butts and bourbon barrels. Ireland did much the same. Japan looked to Scotland. Australia looked out the back door – and found a country full of wine barrels.

There was never a local bourbon industry to raid for casks. What there was, everywhere, was wine: shiraz barriques by the thousand, and fortified casks that had been quietly doing their work for fifty, eighty, a hundred years. Australian distillers didn't just borrow those barrels. In many cases they matured their whisky in them start to finish, wine-wet, rather than using them for a brief final polish. In doing so, they built a national style. The wine–whisky connection In Australia isn't a curiosity. It's the spine.

It runs deeper than barrels, too. Some of Australia’s most storied wineries now make whisky themselves. Some of our most famous fortified cellars have become finishing schools for single malt. This piece maps the main players, and points to similar goings-on overseas.

Australian wineries that distil

Morris of Rutherglen is the flagship of the whole idea. When Casella Family Brands bought Morris from Pernod Ricard in 2016, the aim was simply to save a 157-year-old fortified icon from closure. Then John Casella walked the winery and found the old hybrid copper still – built in Adelaide in the early 1930s, installed at Morris in 1941 to make fortifying spirit. This still had been silent for decades. He restored it, named it Aurora after the sleeping princess, and hired serious help: Scottish veteran John McDougall (Balvenie, Laphroaig, Springbank) and the late Dr Jim Swan, the cask scientist behind Kavalan.

The whisky, first released in 2021, is built on wine at every turn. It matures in ex-shiraz and ex-cabernet barrels drawn from Casella family wineries in the Barossa and Coonawarra, re-coopered by hand at the family's own cooperage, then finishes in Morris fortified casks. More than 100 international gold medals later, and with a $20 million cellar door and distillery reopened at Rutherglen in 2024, Morris is Australia’s best wine-whisky proof of concept: a great fortified house can be a great whisky house.

Smith's Angaston is the cult classic. Yalumba has had a still house since the 1870s and a serious brandy pot since 1908, and from the 1950s to the early 1970s the Hill-Smith family sold whisky under the Smith's label. The modern chapter began in 1997, when wash from Coopers Brewery was run through the old brandy still and the spirit laid down in the winery's own casks – ex-red wine, ex-white wine, finished in muscat casks and even octaves that once held 50-year-old tawny.

Releases are occasional, tiny and hunted by collectors; a new Smith's Angaston bottling surfaced through the Yalumba cellar door earlier this year (2026). Australia's oldest family-owned winery is also, quietly, one of its most fascinating whisky producers.

The collaborations

Lark × Seppeltsfield is the deepest wine–whisky relationship in the country. Seppeltsfield's Centennial Cellar holds what is believed to be the world's only unbroken lineage of single-vintage wines, laid down every year since 1878. Since 2020, Lark has been finishing single malt in those casks, and the results read like an honour roll of their own:

The Seppeltsfield Roll

PARA50 · 202050-year-old Para Vintage Tawny casks
PARA100 · 2021100-year-old Para casks – billed as the world's first 100-year-old cask finish
PARA100 II & Para 92 · 2022Lark's 30th anniversary, marked in 1992 vintage casks
Tokay 100 · 2022Topaque casks from 1922, sniffed out of the museum cellar
1911 Para Cask · 2024135 bottles, $5,250 each – a single barrel from the 1911 vintage
Signature range · nowCore whiskies aged in Seppeltsfield tawny, apera, PX and muscadelle casks

What began as a rare-cask stunt has become the architecture of Lark's whole portfolio – the fortified cellar of the Barossa, poured through the single malts of Tasmania. And for the record: Lark has bottled a Hunter Valley chapter too, finishing a single malt in Brokenwood's 2018 Graveyard Shiraz cask. Yes, Graveyard. In a whisky.

Starward × Yalumba is where Starward's identity begins. Starward built its name on Australian wine barrels, and the relationship started with Yalumba. Founder David Vitale tells it plainly: the very first batch of Starward's wine cask whisky, back in 2013, was aged almost exclusively in Yalumba octaves – the wine went out on the Wednesday night, with new-make spirit going in on the Thursday morning. That closeness became the house method: barrels arrive wine-wet, never dried out, never lost to sulphur.

The partnership's showpiece is Octave Barrels – a single malt fully matured in the 100-litre octaves that hold The Octavius, Yalumba's old-vine Barossa shiraz and, to the winery's knowledge, the only red wine in the world matured in barrels that size, hand-made at the southern hemisphere's only on-site winery cooperage. Starward’s Octave Barrels took a Double Gold at the 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. The wine world and the whisky world, sharing one barrel, both improved by it.

[It’s not the same whisky but see the Mattinson review of Starward Botrytis Cask.]

The cask network

Beyond the marquee partnerships sits a quieter web of wine relationships – distilleries whose house styles are shaped, barrel by barrel, by the wine industry next door.

Starward, in Melbourne, sources barrels from wineries including Yalumba, Penfolds, Wolf Blass, De Bortoli and Wynns – shiraz, cabernet and pinot casks, plus the apera barrels behind its original solera release. Sullivans Cove, the most decorated name in Australian whisky, matures much of its stock in American oak casks that previously held Australian tawny – fortified wine oak underpinning four World's Best titles. Hellyers Road, in Burnie, rests its Pinot Noir Finish in French oak from Tamar Valley pinot – Tamar Ridge casks in the original – and that whisky was voted Best New World Whisky at Whisky Live Paris in 2013; Tasmanian pinot casks now run right through the range. Overeem built its reputation on Australian port and sherry-style casks – tawny and apera in today's language – small barrels, big fortified signature. Black Gate, a tiny two-person distillery in NSW, leans its richly sherried style on ex-tawny casks. And in the west, Great Southern Distilling matures and finishes its Limeburners whiskies in fortified wine casks from Western Australian producers – sherry-style, port-style and muscat among them.

The international mirror

None of this happens in isolation. Wine has been inside whisky from the start – Scotland's sherry casks, its port pipes and madeira drums, are wine casks by another name. What's newer, and growing, is the direct producer-to-producer bond: distillers and winemakers in the same region, trading barrels across the fence.

Westward Whiskey, in Portland, Oregon, is the closest thing to Starward's mirror image. Westward's Pinot Noir Cask is made in partnership with Willamette Valley producers including Bergström and Suzor, and the distillery works the same trick as Melbourne: fills are planned around the wineries' emptying schedule so casks can be filled wine-wet the same day – no sulphur, no drying, no lost flavour. Single malt and Willamette pinot are sold as neighbours because they are.

Cedar Ridge Winery & Distillery, in Swisher, Iowa, is America's Morris in miniature. The Quint family planted vines first, then in 2005 became Iowa's first licensed distillery since Prohibition. Its single malt and limited releases finish in estate wine casks: estate port, estate Marquette red wine, a madeira-inspired estate wine among them. "Our winery is the ace up our sleeve," is how master blender Murphy Quint puts it.

Thomson Whisky, near Auckland NZ, tells the same story on a smaller scale: it matures whisky in wine casks sourced from friends at Kumeu River and Westbrook, two of west Auckland's best-known wineries. When the barrel that shaped a famous chardonnay ends up shaping a single malt, the wine map and the whisky map start to look like the same map.

Kavalan, in Taiwan, made its global name with whiskies matured in wine barriques – re-coopered, toasted and charred to a method developed by consultant Dr Jim Swan, whose cask science turned young, warm-climate whisky into a world-beater. Swan's last great project before his death was Morris of Rutherglen, so the man who taught Taiwan to speak wine-cask also helped an Australian winery learn whisky.

And Suntory, the biggest of them all, began as a winery. Shinjiro Torii's fortune was built on Akadama, the sweet fortified wine he launched in 1907. It was wine money that funded Yamazaki, Japan's first malt whisky distillery, in 1923. Japanese whisky, the category, exists because a wine business paid for it. Grape first, grain second.

More?

Many of the above Australian whisky producers are mentioned in the article [The Most Award Australian Whiskies] and indeed in the 2026 article [Australian Whisky Has Arrived].

Campbell Mattinson

This post was written by Campbell Mattinson. Mattinson is a former chief editor of the Halliday Wine Companion book, former editor of Halliday magazine, former editor of Australian Sommelier Magazine and founder of The Winefront business. He is the author of five books on wine – four of which were bestsellers (The Wine Hunter, the Big Red Wine Book 2008, the Big Red Wine Book 2009, and the Big Red Wine Book 2010).

Mattinson is also the founder of the Mattinson Photography business.

Campbell Mattinson has been an independent journalist, wine critic and photographer for forty years. He’s the only Australian to have won the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year Award more than once. He’s a past winner of a Louis Roederer International Wine Media Award; is the author of the award-winning book The Wine Hunter; and is the author of the best-selling novel We Were Not Men. He’s also a winner of a St Kilda Film Festival Award (as writer-director) and is a former winner of the national Best Australian Sports Writing Award. In 2026 three of his photographs were short-listed for the World Food Photography Awards.

Campbell Mattinson, who is 100% independent, has tasted between 5000 and 10,000 wines each and every year for the past 25 years. He tastes blind, in comparative brackets, as often as is practicable.

Campbell Mattinson is a journalist, a photographer, a filmmaker and a wine critic. In all of these mediums his prime motive is to tell people's stories.

https://www.campbellmattinson.com
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Why Australia Is Great for Whisky